Ensuring Health, Safety and Eco-friendliness in new Suncare development

Awareness of consumers on the impact of the sun on skin ageing and other damages is pushing for higher protection. According to Mintel’s Global New Products Database, since January 2023, 50% of suncare launches in Europe are with SPF50 and over, while they represent 80% of new launches in Asia. The same database shows that new skincare launches with a UV protection claim globally have been on the rise in the past years - growing from 31% in 2021 to 34% in 2022 to 35% in 2023. There is definitely a request for sun protection in the daily routine.[1] Suncare plays an important role in protecting skin health and wellbeing, ensuring safe exposure to the sun all year round. Indeed, multifunctional suncare products are more likely to be used year-round for both men (50%) and women (61%), according to Mintel. “Suncare is a year-round category now and is a staple in our customers’ skincare regimens, not just a summer or holiday addon” says Space NK’s Mitchell. [2]

There are two sides of the coin. One that pledges for sunscreen all the time and all year round, and the other one that expresses a more nuanced approach. Brands have a role to play in educating consumers about the realities of sun damage without using fear-based messaging that social media tend to emphasise. These platforms can sometimes promote dangerous and misleading views about sun exposure. In August 2024, the Daily Mail reported on an alarming TikTok trend where influencers deliberately sunburn their skin, claiming it helps heal acne and boosts immunity. [3] 

On the health protection side, some medical dermatologists, experts and skincare influencers advertise the need for daily protection with SPF. “Sun protection is vitally important because ultraviolet (UV) rays are always present, regardless of the season or time of day” asserted dermatologist Dr Lindsey Zubritsky (known as dermguru on Instagram). According to Zubritsky, incidental sun exposure - the moments when one is not conscious of sun exposure - adds up over time, and that’s a concern.[4] 

On the other hand, Expert Scientific Communicator Marie Dehlinger explains that the risk of applying sunscreen every day in a systematic way is adding ingredients that are not essential to one’s routine. “Overexposure of the skin to some ingredients it doesn't need can lead to an increase of skin reactions or allergies. So, limiting the multiplication of layers on your skin might be beneficial in the long run” explains Dehlinger. She explains that sun protection is necessary, even in winter, but not all the time, depending on UV index and exposure. It’s more about conscious consumption and understanding what works for one’s skin and its environment. Dehlinger further underscores the importance of sunscreen by stating “the first antiaging skincare should be sunscreen”, highlighting its essential role in maintaining skin health. [5] The beauty industry plays an important role in educating the market by finding the right messaging between continuous protection that is not always necessary and avoiding the zero protection mantra.

A key driver of growth in the sunscreen market is the increasing focus on environmental responsibility. Since Hawaï identified the damages caused by two chemicals present in sunscreen - oxybenzone and octinoxate - on coral reef ecosystems and passed a law on May 1st, 2018, the suncare industry has had to evaluate environmental impact to avoid bioaccumulation and biotoxicity.

Beyond the demand for safe and effective ingredients that protect human health, consumers are becoming more conscious of the environmental impact of their beauty products. This heightened awareness is pushing brands to innovate with eco-friendly solutions that safeguard both skin and planet. “Sustainable claims inspire NPD, with eco claims among the fastest-growing in sunscreen. Safety concerns have contributed to a fall in chemical filters and titanium dioxide” [6] explains Mintel. 

"Coral reef-safe sunscreens have become a key selling point for eco-conscious consumers and greener alternatives" explains Dr Laurent Blasco, Global Technical Director at IMCD Beauty & Personal Care. "This shift is driven by concerns over the harmful effects of UV filters on coral reefs and marine ecosystems. In response, many brands are now using safer sunscreens ensuring both effective sun protection and reduced environmental impact" [7] 

Source: Mintel - SunCare : https://store.mintel.com/report/the-future-of-suncare

However, variations in regulations across the globe add complexity to addressing environmental challenges. Since different regions restrict different ingredients, formulating a sunscreen that suits the global market remains a difficult task. Considering the current US regulation prohibits new sunscreen, as they haven’t been listed in the accepted list, US and Global brands tend to use older generation filters, less photostable and with smaller molecular size.

Whether looking after human health and environmental impact, sun care products are improving to better serve the market with efficacy and eco-design.

Awareness of consumers on the impact of the sun on skin ageing and other damages is pushing for higher protection. According to Mintel’s Global New Products Database, since January 2023, 50% of suncare launches in Europe are with SPF50 and over, while they represent 80% of new launches in Asia. The same database shows that new skincare launches with a UV protection claim globally have been on the rise in the past years—growing from 31% in 2021 to 34% in 2022 to 35% in 2023. There is definitely a request for sun protection in the daily routine.[1] Suncare plays an important role in protecting skin health and wellbeing, ensuring safe exposure to the sun all year round. Indeed, multifunctional suncare products are more likely to be used year-round for both men (50%) and women (61%), according to Mintel. “Suncare is a year-round category now and is a staple in our customers’ skincare regimens, not just a summer or holiday addon,” says Space NK’s Mitchell. [2] 

There are two sides of the coin. One that pledges for sunscreen all the time and all year round, and the other one that expresses a more nuanced approach. Brands have a role to play in educating consumers about the realities of sun damage without using fear-based messaging that social media tend to emphasise. These platforms can sometimes promote dangerous and misleading views about sun exposure. In August 2024, the Daily Mail reported on an alarming TikTok trend where influencers deliberately sunburn their skin, claiming it helps heal acne and boosts immunity. [3] 

On the health protection side, some medical dermatologists, experts and skincare influencers advertise the need for daily protection with SPF. “Sun protection is vitally important because ultraviolet (UV) rays are always present, regardless of the season or time of day” asserted dermatologist Dr Lindsey Zubritsky (known as dermguru on Instagram). According to Zubritsky, incidental sun exposure—the moments when one is not conscious of sun exposure—adds up over time, and that’s a concern.[4] 

On the other hand, Expert Scientific Communicator Marie Dehlinger explains that the risk of applying sunscreen every day in a systematic way is adding ingredients that are not essential to one’s routine. “Overexposure of the skin to some ingredients it doesn't need can lead to an increase of skin reactions or allergies. So, limiting the multiplication of layers on your skin might be beneficial in the long run,” explains Dehlinger. She explains that sun protection is necessary, even in winter, but not all the time, depending on UV index and exposure. It’s more about conscious consumption and understanding what works for one’s skin and its environment. Dehlinger further underscores the importance of sunscreen by stating “the first antiaging skincare should be sunscreen”, highlighting its essential role in maintaining skin health. [5] The beauty industry plays an important role in educating the market by finding the right messaging between continuous protection that is not always necessary and avoiding the zero protection mantra. 

A key driver of growth in the sunscreen market is the increasing focus on environmental responsibility. Since Hawaï identified the damages caused by two chemicals present in sunscreen - oxybenzone and octinoxate - on coral reef ecosystems and passed a law on May 1, 2018, the suncare industry has had to evaluate environmental impact to avoid bioaccumulation and biotoxicity. 

Beyond the demand for safe and effective ingredients that protect human health, consumers are becoming more conscious of the environmental impact of their beauty products. This heightened awareness is pushing brands to innovate with eco-friendly solutions that safeguard both skin and planet. “Sustainable claims inspire NPD, with eco claims among the fastest-growing in sunscreen. Safety concerns have contributed to a fall in chemical filters and titanium dioxide.” [6] explains Mintel. 

Source: Mintel - SunCare : https://store.mintel.com/report/the-future-of-suncare 

"Coral reef-safe sunscreens have become a key selling point for eco-conscious consumers and greener alternatives", explains Dr Laurent Blasco, Global Technical Director at IMCD Beauty & Personal Care. "This shift is driven by concerns over the harmful effects of UV filters on coral reefs and marine ecosystems. In response, many brands are now using safer sunscreens ensuring both effective sun protection and reduced environmental impact." [7] 

Sources: 

[1] Mintel GNPD - https://www.mintel.com/products/gnpd/ 

[2] https://www.voguebusiness.com/beauty/premium-products-andsuncare-lead-beauty-surge 

[3] Insane TikTok trend for 'sunburning' which influencers claim can heal acne and boost immunity... but doctors warn against trying it https://www.dailymail.co.uk/health/article-13689291/TikTok-trendsunburning-influencers-claim-heal.html 

[4] https://www.happi.com/spf-365/ 

[5] Interview with Marie Dehlinger - Science Communications Specialist in Beauty 

[6] https://www.voguebusiness.com/beauty/premium-products-and-suncare-lead-beauty-surge 

[7] Interview with Laurent Blasco - Global Technical Director IMCD Beauty & Personal Care